Experience Anderson Valley Like an Insider
The coolest wine region in california
Anderson Valley’s alluring combination of rugged beauty, soaring redwoods, and relative isolation attracts “brightlighters,” hipsters, and free-spirits. In addition to boasting their own dialect (“Boontling,” the language of Boonville), Anderson Valley hosts a brewery, a cidery, two post offices (Boonville & Philo), approximately 2400 acres of winegrapes, and 30 wineries. Of course, Anderson Valley wine grapes travel further afield, elating winemakers throughout Northern California, from the Sonoma Coast to inland Napa, Bruliam included. In fact, when I started my winemaking career in 2008, I sourced my inaugural grapes from the Anderson Valley, first from Annahala Vineyard and then from Rich Savoy’s Deer Meadows Vineyard. Returning to the AVA that launched my winemaking career feels like snuggling into a favorite, worn sweatshirt- only better, since these days I’m playing with Ferrington Vineyard fruit, arguably one of the premier pinot noir sites in all of California. Visiting Anderson Valley offers a unique window into California history, how a still remote, former logging community layers their proud homesteader sensibility atop modern hospitality. Anderson Valley wines are spectacular; the surrounding redwoods, meadows, streams, and undulating hills are breathtaking. It’s terroir best experienced firsthand.
Pinot Noir clusters, Ferrington Vineyard, Anderson Valley
it’s always sweater weather
A mere 15 miles long and 1 mile wide, the Anderson Valley is dotted with grazing sheep and ancient apple orchards. Situated 110 miles northwest of San Francisco, this AVA clocks in as the coldest wine region in California, with an average temperature of 53 degrees. Typical diurnal swings can exceed 40 degrees between daytime highs and nighttime lows. And any wine lover worth her tannins knows pinot noir thrives among foggy mornings and cold nights. Consider this past June, where daytime highs kissed 80-85 degrees only a few times the entire month. And it’s cold. So, pack a sweater.
begin here
Meyer Family Cellars: your launchpad to Anderson Valley
The exceptional Meyer Family Cellars nudges the boundary between Yorkville and the Anderson Valley, offering a perfect launching pad. Upon entry, beware their guard rooster, who has been known to flaunt his (toxic?) masculinity.
He’s actually kind of territorial
Meyer Family Cellars is a delightful anomaly in the region, featuring exquisite cabernet sauvignon sourced from their epic, Oakville, Napa Valley estate alongside locally grown, cool-climate varietals. Insiders know winemakers Karen and Matt Meyers bring a winning combination of global expertise and homegrown credibility to every bottling. Their Oakville cabernets are extraordinary, ranked among the best of the best. But they also vinify a broad range from pink to pinot to petite sirah. While there, be sure to inquire about their delicious cabernet franc, Ferrington Vineyard chardonnay, crisp sauvignon blanc, and traditional Solera method port, since today’s theme is insider know-how. With your palate sated, head north to Boonville for snacks.
come for the cheese; stay for the view
Native species attract beneficial insects and honeybees
At Pennyroyal Farms, it’s gouda brie a good day. Sigh. I know! It’s not easy, being cheesy, but don’t feel blue, since Pennyroyal Farm crafts Boonter’s Blue year-round. Naturally, sweet dreams are made of cheese, from creamy, spreadable laychee (Boontling for “milk,” duh) to aged tomme. OK, enough cheese puns; I know I am grating on your patience. But take my curd for it- either indulge in a cheese tasting on their lovely grounds or collect your favorites to go. Hint, hint: stock up on picnic provisions here. Pennyroyal also offers wine tasting and farm tours, also excellent albeit less pun-worthy.
The cheese case at Pennyroyal is stocked with to-go goodness
a sandwich that overdelivers
This is a hot take. Bypass the Mosswood Market/Farmhouse Mercantile at the mouth of Boonville. Keep traveling north to the Boont Berry Farm for a killer chicken salad sandwich that way over-delivers. (FYI: sandwiches are in the cold case in the back). Care to nosh on site? Cute two-top tables are buffered from the road by ample greenery. Or simply add your sandwich to your basket of picnic goodies.
With half an avocado nestled above home-cooked chicken chunks, this sandwich over-delivers every single time.
make it a balanced meal
Gowans has both seasonal produce and year-round frozen apple pie
The farmstand at Gowan’s Oak Tree offers year-round, seasonal produce (& frozen apple pies!). The Gowan family is esteemed for their heritage orchards and heirloom apples. If you love fresh apple cider (or hard cider) their tasting room is due north of the farmstand.
Look for the oak tree; you can’t miss it…
finally, we eat!
Picnic for the day or camp for the night (except I don’t camp)
Hendy Woods State Park offers hiking trails, campgrounds, meadows, redwoods, water sports, and yes, picnic tables. Even if you’re not a camper (like me), you’ll appreciate the breathtaking scenery is more majestic than the café tables at Boont Berry. Plus, you won’t feel like a jerk-off eating Pennyroyal cheese at another vendor’s deli.
sweet treats are made of this
Seasonal jams are intensely flavored and really delicious
The Philo Apple Farm offers overnight accommodations, ticketed Saturday suppers, cooking classes, and epic fruit jam. Pro tip: spoon Philo Apple Farm apricot jam over Pennyroyal laychee to make the easiest appetizer with biggest wow factor. This jam/cheese marriage is equally divine alongside dessert wine.
good to know
The Philo Apple Farm farmstand is a cash-only, honor system setup; come prepared. And P.S., I also love their apple cider vinegar to amp up vinaigrettes and dressings, like Samin Nosrat’s creamy lemon miso dressing.
P.S. Anderson Valley locals know to hit the ATM first
but mom, i said i wanted ice cream
With a throwback vibe and cute name story, family-owned Jumbo’s Win Win offers burgers, fries, and soft serve.
A classic throw-back roadside diner featuring burgers, fries, and soft serve
why here? why now?
Dappled sunlight on growing pinot noir clusters
Since my inaugural Anderson Valley vintage, I’ve coveted fruit from the Ferrington Vineyard. This legacy site is prized for her purity of fruit, vibrant acidity, and yin/yang of textural richness layered atop brightness. When a Norm offered me a small allocation in 2023, I leapt with joy. I immediately signed on the dotted line; afterwards I informed the CF(n)O. I think I was smart to follow my heart and follow my gut. My inaugural 2023 Ferrington Vineyard pinot noir scored 92, 93, 94, and 96 points from Wine Spectator, Jeb Dunnuck, Vinous, and Lisa Perotti Brown, respectively. Naturally, I can tell you it’s good – but it’s nice to bring reinforcements.
Anderson Valley throw back pic - harvest 2011
just do it
Anderson Valley exudes an unusual juxtaposition of insular tribalism (“Howdy brightlighter. You don’t harp.” [speak Boontling]) and hospitality (Welcome to my tasting room!). Travelers who brave the hairpin turns of Highway 128 are rewarded by locals who are delighted to share their culture, wine, wares, and lifestyle. Prepare to be awed by this remote, rugged, and majestic valley.
Scratch vineyard manager Norman Kobler. We met in ‘08, that time I showed up at the Ardzrooni Vineyard Management offices with cupcakes…